
Photo: Riblet15 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Coffin Bread (Deep-Fried Toast Box with Creamy Chicken and Shrimp)
Tainan's street snack: a thick block of white bread deep-fried whole, its top cut open as a lid and the inside filled with a thick cream sauce of chicken and shrimp. A bread bowl drinks the soup it holds; this one is fried first, so its walls are sealed with oil before the filling arrives. The filling is thickened with a roux, and it is eaten straight away, before the unfried inside of the box goes soft.
Ingredients
- Bread
- white bread · cut 4-5cm thick; day-old is better2 blocks
- oil for deep-frying1 L
- Filling
- butter25 g
- onion · finely chopped0.25
- plain flour25 g
- milk · cold200 ml
- chicken stock100 ml
- chicken breast · 1cm dice80 g
- prawns · peeled and halved6
- carrot · small dice30 g
- peas20 g
- sweetcorn20 g
- salt0.5 tsp
- white pepper1 pinch
Steps
- ⏲ 5 min
Melt the butter in a pan and soften the onion for 3 minutes, then stir in the flour and cook 2 minutes more without colouring.
- ⏲ 5 min
Whisk in the cold milk and stock a little at a time, then simmer over low heat, stirring, for 5 minutes. It should be thick enough not to run straight off a tilted spoon — a sauce, not a soup.
- ⏲ 7 min
Add the chicken and carrot for 5 minutes, then the prawns, peas and corn for 2 minutes more. Season with salt and white pepper and keep hot over the lowest heat.
- ⏲ 2 min
Heat the oil to 170°C. Fry the bread blocks whole, turning, for 1-2 minutes until all six faces are golden. Stand them on a rack to drain.
Cut three sides of the top crust about 1cm down and lift it like a lid. Press the crumb inside down with a spoon, or scoop a little out, to make the box.
Fill it to the top with the hot filling, set the lid on at an angle and serve at once. Eat the filling with a spoon from under the lid, and tear off the walls by hand.
Tips & Variations
Variations
- With chicken liver: according to ko.wikipedia, when it was first sold in Tainan's Kangle market in the 1940s the main ingredient was chicken liver, then thought of as a luxury. A filling of sautéed chicken liver and mushrooms is close to the original.
- Curry or corn chowder: shops now fill it with curry, creamed corn, seafood and more. Whatever the filling, the rule is the same — thickened with a roux.
- Against the bread-bowl soup: clam chowder served in a sourdough bowl does not fry the bread, and its page says what follows: "The bread drinks the liquid, so make the chowder slightly thicker for it." Coffin bread does both — the filling is thick, and the bread is fried first.
- The name: ko.wikipedia records that a professor, seeing the square box with its lid, said it looked like a coffin (棺材), and the name stuck.
Tips
- Fry the block whole, and cut the lid afterwards. Menbosha tells you to stand its cut sides in the oil too, because "those faces are cut crumb and stay pale and damp otherwise." Coffin bread uses that property the other way round. All six outer faces are fried and sealed with oil, and the cut faces only appear afterwards, so they all end up inside the box. Cut first and fry, and the oil gets into the inside too and makes it heavy.
- The oil temperature builds the wall. As menbosha puts it, "Below 150°C the bread drinks oil like a sponge and goes soggy;" a wall that has drunk oil is not a waterproof layer, it is an oil sponge. A short fry at 170°C dries only the outside.
- Day-old bread is better. "Drier bread takes up less oil." What menbosha says holds here unchanged. Fresh bread lets the oil spread right through.
- The filling is a sauce, not a soup. The fried wall only protects the outside; the inside of the box is unfried crumb, and a thin filling soaks straight into it. A roux-thick filling slows that down (thickening sauces).
- Eat it at once. The crumb will drink the filling in the end, so the filling goes in just before eating. Left standing filled, only the lid stays crisp and the bottom turns to porridge.
The basics behind this dish
- Deep Frying: Temperature, Batter, and the Second FryFrying is not cooking in oil so much as trading the food's water for it. Two temperatures, what each kind of coating is for, and why the second fry exists.
- Heat Control: Preheating, Oil, and Reading the PanThe same ingredients become a different dish depending on pan temperature. When to add the oil, how to read heat by sound, and which dishes want low heat instead.
- Knife Skills: Grip, Cuts, and Why Size MattersHow you hold the knife matters more than how fast you cut. The pinch grip, the claw hand, and why uniform size is a cooking decision rather than a cosmetic one.
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