Takoyaki (Octopus Batter Balls with Sauce and Bonito)

Photo: gaku. · CC BY 2.0

Takoyaki (Octopus Batter Balls with Sauce and Bonito)

Osaka street food: a batter loosened almost to the thinness of water with dashi, poured over boiled octopus and rolled in a dimpled pan. The batter has to be that thin for the centre to set like custard, and each ball is turned 90 degrees twice rather than flipped once, or the shell tears before it rounds.

Ingredients

2servings
  • Batter
  • cake flour · plain works; bread flour turns it chewy100 g
  • egg1 pc
  • dashi · katsuobushi and kelp; even instant beats water400 ml
  • soy sauce1 tsp
  • salt0.25 tsp
  • Filling
  • boiled octopus · in 1.5cm pieces, patted dry120 g
  • spring onions · finely sliced3 stalks
  • tenkasu · tempura scraps; or crush any fried batter3 tbsp
  • beni shoga · red pickled ginger, chopped small2 tbsp
  • neutral oil · be generous in every well3 tbsp
  • To finish
  • takoyaki sauce · okonomiyaki sauce is the same thing3 tbsp
  • mayonnaise2 tbsp
  • katsuobushi · the thin shavings, so they move in the heat1 handful
  • aonori · powdered green seaweed1 tsp

Steps

  1. Let the dashi cool completely. Mixed into lukewarm liquid, the batter thickens before it ever reaches the pan.

    ⏲ 5 min
  2. Beat the egg, stir in the dashi, soy sauce and salt, then sift in the flour and fold it lightly. A few lumps are fine — over-mixing builds gluten and the shell turns chewy.

    ⏲ 3 min
  3. Check the consistency. It should be thinner than milk, nowhere near cream — it runs off a ladle in an unbroken stream. Loosen it with more dashi if it does not.

    ⏲ 1 min
  4. Pat the octopus dry and chop the spring onion and beni shoga, each into its own bowl next to the pan. Once you start pouring there is no time to prep.

    ⏲ 5 min
  5. Heat the takoyaki pan over medium until it is properly hot — a drop of batter should sizzle at once. Under-heated, the batter grips the wells and will not turn.

    ⏲ 3 min
  6. Brush oil generously into every well and across the flat surface between them. That flat part is where you will gather the batter from later.

    ⏲ 1 min
  7. Pour the batter so it overflows the wells. The overflow is not a mistake, it is material — you scrape it in to build each ball.

    ⏲ 1 min
  8. Drop one piece of octopus into each well, then scatter the spring onion, tenkasu and beni shoga over the whole pan.

    ⏲ 1 min
  9. Leave it alone for 90 seconds, until the edges have set into a rim.

    ⏲ 2 min
  10. Run a skewer between the wells to cut the sheet of batter apart. Then turn each ball only 90 degrees and push the overflow down into the well behind it.

    ⏲ 2 min
  11. A minute later, turn another 90 degrees to close the sphere. Flip a full 180 in one go and the still-thin underside tears.

    ⏲ 1 min
  12. Keep rolling them, shifting the angle a little every two or three minutes: 8-10 minutes in total, until the outside is deep brown and firm and a ball rocks lightly when you lift it with the skewer.

    ⏲ 8 min
  13. Plate them and add sauce, then mayonnaise, then aonori, then katsuobushi — in that order, so the bonito flakes catch the heat and move. Wait half a minute; the centres are molten.

    ⏲ 1 min

Tips & Variations

Variations

  • Akashiyaki, from Akashi in Hyogo, is generally held to be what takoyaki grew

out of. It uses far more egg, so it is much softer, and it is dipped in warm dashi instead of being sauced. With no sauce over it, the dashi in the batter is what you taste.

  • Instead of octopus: prawn, cheese, rice cake, sausage, kimchi. All are

ordinary in Osaka too, and sensible when octopus is expensive. Avoid very wet fillings such as tomato — the centre never sets.

  • No bottled sauce? Mix Worcestershire sauce 3 : ketchup 1 : soy sauce 0.5 with

a little sugar. Getting the sweet-sour ratio right is the same exercise as in balancing flavour.

  • Sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and bonito is the same finish as

okonomiyaki — one bottle of sauce covers both.

Tips

  • You cannot make these without the pan. The hemispherical wells are what form

the ball. Cast iron and aluminium both work; a stove-top one responds faster than an electric plate, which makes it easier to control.

  • Do not be stingy with the batter. Fill each well exactly level and you get a

disc, not a sphere. The overflow is what you have to build with.

  • Barely mix the flour in. This is the opposite of bread: less gluten is what

leaves the middle custardy (dough and gluten).

  • Water instead of dashi loses half the flavour. The sauce seems as though it

would cover for it, but a bland centre still reads as bland (stocks and broth).

  • Tenkasu is the quiet half of the texture — it gives up its fat inside the

batter and crisps the shell from within; deep frying explains why.

  • Freeze leftovers. Reheating, microwave them through first and then colour the

outside again in a dry pan or air fryer — microwave alone leaves the shell limp.

The basics behind this dish

Cooking basics →

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