Huoguo (Sichuan Mala Hot Pot)

Photo: Akira CA · CC0

Huoguo (Sichuan Mala Hot Pot)

The Sichuan and Chongqing hot pot: a red broth built by frying doubanjiang and whole spices slowly in beef fat, then used to cook whatever you dip in it. Frying the bean paste long and gently without scorching it, and adding the peppercorns last, are what keep the heat and the numbing separate.

Ingredients

4servings
  • Red broth base
  • beef fat · half the aroma; neutral oil works instead100 g
  • doubanjiang · Pixian if you can get it3 tbsp
  • dried chillies · erjingtiao or similar; soak 10 min in hot water30 g
  • Sichuan peppercorns · these go in last2 tbsp
  • garlic · whole, crushed8 cloves
  • ginger · in thick slices30 g
  • leek · in large pieces1 stalk
  • star anise3 pcs
  • cassia bark · 5cm1 piece
  • cloves · more than this takes over everything4 pcs
  • bay leaves2 pcs
  • fennel seeds1 tsp
  • caoguo · Chinese cardamom; skip if unavailable1 pc
  • douchi · fermented black beans, chopped1 tbsp
  • sugar · rock sugar is better1 tbsp
  • Shaoxing wine3 tbsp
  • stock · chicken or pork bone; water is fine2 L
  • salt · to taste at the end1 tsp
  • Clear broth (optional second side)
  • chicken stock1 L
  • jujubes4 pcs
  • goji berries1 tbsp
  • leek0.5 stalk
  • To dip
  • beef · chuck flap or similar, sliced thin300 g
  • lamb · optional, thinly sliced200 g
  • prawns200 g
  • fish balls or meatballs200 g
  • tofu skin · or fried tofu puffs100 g
  • bok choy200 g
  • napa cabbage200 g
  • potato · sliced thin; the slowest item200 g
  • lotus root · sliced thin150 g
  • wood ear mushrooms · rehydrated50 g
  • enoki mushrooms100 g
  • sweet potato noodles · fensi, at the very end150 g
  • Dipping sauce (per person)
  • sesame oil · the Chongqing standard3 tbsp
  • garlic · minced2 cloves
  • coriander · chopped2 tbsp
  • spring onion1 stalk
  • oyster sauce · optional1 tsp
  • vinegar · optional; cuts the fat1 tsp

Steps

  1. Soak the dried chillies in hot water for 10 minutes, squeeze them out and chop them coarsely. Fried dry they scorch in seconds and the whole broth turns bitter.

    ⏲ 10 min
  2. Melt the beef fat slowly in a heavy pot over low heat. If it smokes, it is already too hot.

    ⏲ 5 min
  3. Fry the leek, ginger and garlic for 5 minutes, then lift them out as they start to colour — the point is to leave their aroma in the fat.

    ⏲ 5 min
  4. Add the doubanjiang and fry 5 minutes over very low heat, until the fat turns clear red and the smell goes from salty to toasty. This step is most of what makes hot pot, and burning it cannot be undone.

    ⏲ 5 min
  5. Add the soaked chillies and the douchi and fry 3 minutes more.

    ⏲ 3 min
  6. Add star anise, cassia, cloves, bay, fennel and caoguo and give it 2 minutes. Keep the spices whole so they are easy to fish out later.

    ⏲ 2 min
  7. The Sichuan peppercorns go in for the last minute only. The numbing compounds are heat-sensitive: fry them long and the ma disappears, leaving just bitterness.

    ⏲ 1 min
  8. Add the sugar and Shaoxing wine, scrape the base clean, then pour in the 2L of stock.

    ⏲ 1 min
  9. Simmer 30 minutes below a boil. The kitchen will tell you how it is going. Season with salt at the end.

    ⏲ 30 min
  10. For the clear side: simmer the chicken stock with jujube, goji and leek for 15 minutes. In a divided pot, pour one broth into each half.

    ⏲ 15 min
  11. Lay the dipping ingredients out on platters and have everyone mix their own sauce — sesame oil, minced garlic, coriander, spring onion. The oil is there to rinse the chilli fat off each piece.

    ⏲ 10 min
  12. Set the pot on a table burner at a gentle simmer. Start with the slow things (potato, lotus root); beef goes in for 10-15 seconds only. Noodles go in at the very end.

    ⏲ 20 min

Tips & Variations

Variations

  • The divided (yuanyang) pot in the photo takes the red broth on one side and a

clear one on the other. Useful when someone cannot eat chilli, and interesting anyway: the same ingredient tastes like two different things.

  • Beijing-style (shuan yang rou) is the opposite dish — plain broth, thin lamb

only, sesame paste to dip. The meat is the subject rather than the spices, which puts it closer to shabu-shabu.

  • Two families of dipping sauce. Chongqing uses sesame oil with garlic and

coriander; Beijing uses sesame paste with fermented chive and shrimp oil. Oil suits the red broth, paste suits the clear one.

  • To scale it down to one person, make the base and cook single bowls from it

like malatang. The base keeps a week refrigerated, two months frozen.

Tips

  • Heat and numbing come from different ingredients. La (heat) is the dried

chilli; ma (numbing) is the Sichuan peppercorn. Want it hotter, add chilli; want it more numbing, add peppercorn. Push both at once and nothing is distinguishable (balancing flavour).

  • Fry the doubanjiang low and long. This is where hot pot almost always goes

wrong. A minute over high heat leaves salt and scorch; five minutes over low heat turns the fat red and brings up the fermented smell (heat control).

  • Do not add the peppercorns early. Whole spices need time to give up their

aroma, but Sichuan peppercorn is the reverse, so the last minute is exact (blooming spices).

  • The layer of fat acts as a lid. A hot pot broth is far hotter than its calm

surface suggests — which is why ten seconds cooks a slice of beef, and why leaving it in turns it tough almost at once.

  • Swapping the beef fat for oil makes a much lighter pot. Not wrong, but a

different dish: know that half the aroma was coming from the fat.

  • Water instead of stock is fine. The ingredients keep giving, so the broth at

the end is far richer than the one you started with (stocks and broth).

  • Strain and chill leftover base for up to a week. At home, making it fresh each

time is the right call.

The basics behind this dish

Cooking basics →

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