Gyukatsu (Breaded Beef Cutlet, Rare Inside)

Photo: bryan... from Taipei, Taiwan · CC BY-SA 2.0

Gyukatsu (Breaded Beef Cutlet, Rare Inside)

A thick piece of beef in breadcrumbs, fried at 180°C for barely a minute so the crust crisps while the centre stays rare. Short in the oil, long on the rack is the whole method — and it is a method for whole cuts of beef only.

Ingredients

2servings
  • Beef
  • beef · sirloin or striploin, cut 2cm or thicker — one whole piece400 g
  • salt0.5 tsp
  • black pepper · coarsely ground0.25 tsp
  • Coating
  • plain flour4 tbsp
  • egg · well beaten1 pc
  • fresh panko · coarse and moist; lighter than dried crumbs100 g
  • frying oil · at least 4cm deep1 L
  • To serve
  • cabbage · shredded very fine and soaked in cold water200 g
  • wasabi1 tsp
  • soy sauce · to stir the wasabi into as a dip2 tbsp
  • flaky salt · a little on the cut face — the clearest way to taste it0.5 tsp
  • sesame sauce · optional: ground sesame with soy and mirin3 tbsp

Steps

  1. Take the beef out of the fridge 30 minutes ahead. A cold centre will not warm through in 90 seconds of frying, no matter what.

    ⏲ 30 min
  2. Shred the cabbage as finely as you can, soak it in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain it thoroughly. Do the rest of the prep while it soaks.

    ⏲ 10 min
  3. Blot the beef dry and season both sides with salt and pepper. A wet surface turns the flour into paste.

    ⏲ 2 min
  4. Coat: flour, then egg, then panko. Press the crumbs on with your palm and shake off what does not stick.

    ⏲ 3 min
  5. Bring the oil to 180°C. A thermometer is the reliable way; failing that, a single crumb should rise and bubble briskly at once.

    ⏲ 8 min
  6. Fry for 60-90 seconds. Deep gold on the outside is the finish line. Longer and the middle cooks through, at which point this is a beef tonkatsu rather than gyukatsu.

    ⏲ 2 min
  7. Rest it standing on a rack for 5 minutes. Carry-over heat moves the centre from rare to medium-rare in that time, and cutting now would empty it of juice.

    ⏲ 5 min
  8. Slice 2cm thick. The cut face should be clearly pink; a thick grey band around the edge means 15 seconds less oil next time.

    ⏲ 1 min
  9. Serve with a cast-iron pan or stone plate heated until very hot, so anyone uneasy about rare beef can sear their own cut faces for 10-20 seconds.

    ⏲ 3 min
  10. Plate with the cabbage and set out flaky salt, wasabi-soy and sesame sauce. Try the first piece with nothing but salt.

    ⏲ 1 min

Tips & Variations

Variations

  • Sear it yourself on a hot stone. This is what the shops do: 10-20 seconds per

cut face brings it to medium, which puts the doneness in the diner's hands. A small cast-iron pan heated for five minutes does the same job at home.

  • Katsu sando. Mustard butter on white bread, gyukatsu and sauce in between.

Let it cool completely before cutting and the cross-section stays clean.

  • Sauces, in increasing order of how much they cover the beef: flaky salt,

wasabi-soy, sesame sauce, demi-glace. With good meat, start at the front of that list.

  • Same breadcrumbs, opposite method to tonkatsu: pork has to be

cooked through, so the cut is thinner and the time longer. Karaage is a useful third comparison in frying.

Tips

  • This method is for whole cuts of beef only. Rare beef is safe because the

contamination is on the surface and 180°C oil deals with the surface. Minced, mechanically tenderised, or "formed" meat glued together from thin pieces has that surface on the inside and must not be eaten this way. Buy a piece cut from a whole muscle.

  • Under 2cm, rare is not possible. In the 90 seconds it takes to crisp the

crust, a thin piece cooks through. The thickness is a condition of the dish.

  • Use fresh panko. Dried crumbs are dense: they make a thicker, harder shell

and need longer in the oil to colour — the opposite of what a 90-second fry wants (deep frying).

  • Hold 180°C. At 160 the crumbs drink oil and go soggy; at 200 the crust burns

while the middle is still cold (heat control).

  • Do not skip the 5-minute rest. Fried meat needs resting for the same reason

grilled meat does (cooking meat and resting).

  • Refrigerate leftovers and reheat at 200°C in an oven or air fryer for 3 minutes —

accepting that the centre cooks through and the rare middle is gone.

The basics behind this dish

Cooking basics →

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