Khanom Bueang (Crisp Rice-Flour Shell)

Photo: PattayaPatrol · CC BY-SA 4.0

Khanom Bueang (Crisp Rice-Flour Shell)

A rice-flour batter spread paper-thin on a hot plate until it crisps, then folded in half while still hot so it sets in a taco curve. This site’s cheung fun steams the same kind of rice-flour liquid into a soft sheet, and dosa gets its crackle from fermentation. Khanom bueang has neither ferment nor steam. It is crisp for one reason — spread thin enough that all the water leaves before the starch can set soft — and it holds whatever shape it was in when the last water went. Which makes the moment you fold it the whole recipe.

Ingredients

20servings
  • The shell
  • rice flour · dry-milled spreads thinner than wet-milled100 g
  • mung bean flour · or more tapioca starch30 g
  • tapioca starch20 g
  • egg yolk1
  • water · it should flow like milk200 ml
  • sugar10 g
  • salt2 g
  • The cream (meringue)
  • egg whites2
  • sugar100 g
  • water · for the syrup40 ml
  • lime juice2 drops
  • Sweet topping
  • foi thong (golden egg threads) · sweetened shredded coconut if you cannot get it60 g
  • shredded coconut · cooked in sugar40 g
  • Savoury topping
  • dried shrimp · chopped fine40 g
  • shredded coconut30 g
  • coriander · chopped2 tbsp
  • white pepper1 pinch

Steps

  1. Whisk the rice flour, mung bean flour, tapioca starch, sugar and salt with the yolk and water. It must flow like milk. Pass it through a sieve and rest it half an hour.

    ⏲ 30 min
  2. Stir it again before every single pour. Rice flour does not dissolve, it hangs in the water, and it settles within a minute — Cheung Fun has the same rule for the same reason.

  3. Boil 100g sugar with 40ml water to 115C. Whip the whites to soft peaks, then pour the hot syrup in a thin stream, whipping, until you have a stiff glossy meringue. Add two drops of lime.

    ⏲ 10 min
  4. Mix the dried shrimp, coconut, coriander and pepper for the savoury topping. Have the sweet toppings ready as they are.

    ⏲ 5 min
  5. Heat a cast-iron pan or a heavy plate over medium-low. No oil. A drop of water that skitters at once means it is ready.

    ⏲ 8 min
  6. Pour on a tablespoon of batter and spread it as thin as you possibly can with the back of a spoon, in a spiral. Ten centimetres across, the thickness of paper. Thicker and it will not crisp; it turns into a tough little pancake.

  7. Two minutes, untouched. It is done when the edges lift by themselves and the surface has dried and gone translucent. Do not turn it — only one side is cooked.

    ⏲ 2 min
  8. On the plate, spoon on meringue and the topping, then fold it in half at once. The residual heat sets the curve as you fold. Cold, it snaps instead.

    ⏲ 1 min
  9. Stand them on a rack and let them cool completely. Hot they are still slightly flexible; the crispness arrives as they cool.

    ⏲ 5 min

Tips & Variations

Variations

  • Sweet and savoury. Stalls sell both: foi thong and sweetened coconut on one, dried shrimp and coriander on the other. The hero shows the two together.
  • Khanom bueang boran. The older form, with a thicker, larger shell and coconut cream instead of meringue.
  • Bánh khọt / Vietnamese khanom bueang yuan. A large savoury pancake of the bánh xèo family — same name, different food.
  • Not khanom krok. That is a different sweet, a coconut-milk batter baked in hemispherical moulds. Commons mixes the two under a khanom bueang search.
  • Without foi thong. Sweetened shredded coconut on its own works. Less colour, same job.

Tips

  • The crispness comes from somewhere else than usual. Dosa's own page says the crispness "comes from the fermentation, not from the cooking — an under-fermented batter will not crackle on any pan you own." Khanom bueang has no fermentation at all. Its crispness has exactly one source: thickness. Spread paper-thin, all the water leaves before the starch can set into a soft sheet, and what is left is a dry shell.
  • Cheung Fun is the same liquid with the opposite ending. That pours a rice-flour batter into a shallow tray and steams it into a soft sheet. This spreads the same kind of batter on a dry plate and dries it. Wet heat and dry heat, two branches.
  • Stir before every pour. Rice flour does not dissolve, it hangs in the water and settles within a minute. Unstirred, the first shell is thin water and the last is paste — the same rule, for the same reason, as on the cheung fun page.
  • The shape is decided at the instant the last water leaves. Which is why the fold is the whole recipe: fold it hot on the plate and it sets in that curve; fold it cold and it snaps. Unlike Dotori-muk or the Oyster Omelette, where starch sets as a gel, this sets by having no water left.
  • Do not turn it. One side only. Turned, the face you were going to top dries out too and it cracks at the fold.
  • No oil on the plate. Oil makes the batter slide instead of spreading, and it fries and colours. It has to be a dry surface.
  • Too much heat is the common failure. The edge burns while the middle is still wet. Medium-low and two minutes is the mark.
  • The meringue must be Italian. Whites whipped with hot syrup hold at room temperature. Raw-white meringue weeps within minutes and softens the shell from inside.

The basics behind this dish

Cooking basics →

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