Cambodian

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Samlor Kako (Stirring Soup with Toasted Rice)

Cambodia's national soup: a pounded Khmer paste of lemongrass and turmeric let out into a broth, whatever vegetables there are simmered in it, and the body brought up at the end with rice that has been toasted dark and ground. Kako means to stir. Where amok seals the same paste into a banana-leaf cup so that nothing escapes, this one dissolves it into a litre of liquid — and the toasted rice and the prahok are what pay for that.

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Fish Amok (Steamed Fish Curry)

Cambodia's national dish: white fish folded into a fragrant kroeung of lemongrass and turmeric with coconut cream and egg, then steamed in banana-leaf cups. The egg sets it into something closer to a savory custard than a curry.