Mille-feuille (Puff Pastry Layered with Pastry Cream)

Photo: Georges Seguin (Okki) · CC BY-SA 3.0

Mille-feuille (Puff Pastry Layered with Pastry Cream)

Three sheets of baked puff pastry with pastry cream between them and fondant on top. Puff pastry has no yeast in it: the only thing lifting it is water in the butter layers turning to steam. Left alone it triples in height, and unevenly. A mille-feuille is the one pastry that stops that on purpose — the dough is docked all over and baked with a tray on top of it, so the layers all stay and the height comes down to about a third. It has to be a thing you can cut.

Ingredients

6servings
  • The pastry
  • puff pastry · all-butter; the folding itself belongs to the croissant page500 g
  • icing sugar · dusted on for the last ten minutes, to caramelise2 tbsp
  • Pastry cream
  • milk500 ml
  • egg yolks5
  • sugar110 g
  • cornflour45 g
  • vanilla pod · split; or 1 tsp extract1
  • unsalted butter · off the heat40 g
  • To lighten it (optional)
  • double cream · whipped firm and folded into the cooled cream, making crème diplomate150 ml
  • The top
  • icing sugar · for the fondant200 g
  • water30 ml
  • dark chocolate · melted, piped in lines and dragged with a skewer30 g

Steps

  1. Start with the pastry cream. Warm the milk with the vanilla, pour it slowly onto the yolks whisked with sugar and cornflour, return it to the pan and stir a full minute after it comes to the boil. That minute is what kills the amylase in the yolks.

    ⏲ 15 min
  2. Off the heat, stir in the butter, cover it with film pressed onto the surface and chill it completely.

    ⏲ 60 min
  3. Roll the pastry into a rectangle 3mm thick and chill it for thirty minutes. Cold pastry cuts without the layers being squashed.

    ⏲ 30 min
  4. Dock it — prick the whole sheet closely with a fork. The holes give the steam a way out, so it cannot collect anywhere and lift the sheet into a dome.

    ⏲ 5 min
  5. Lay the sheet on a lined tray, put a second sheet of paper over it and a second tray on top. 200C for twenty minutes. That tray is the entire dish: every layer stays, and only the height is taken away.

    ⏲ 20 min
  6. Lift the top tray off, sift icing sugar over the pastry and bake ten minutes more. The sugar melts into a glassy film, which is also what later stops the cream soaking upward.

    ⏲ 10 min
  7. Cool completely, then trim with a serrated knife into three sheets of the same size. Keep the best-looking one for the top.

    ⏲ 10 min
  8. Cut the top sheet into portions before you assemble anything. A knife brought down on a finished mille-feuille squeezes the cream out sideways. Pre-cut, only the two lower sheets have to be cut at the end.

    ⏲ 5 min
  9. Mix the icing sugar and water into a fondant, spread it thinly on the top sheet, pipe lines of melted chocolate across it and drag a skewer through them in alternating directions. Finish before the fondant sets.

    ⏲ 5 min
  10. Pipe cream onto the bottom sheet, add the second, more cream, and the decorated sheet last. Serve straight away.

    ⏲ 10 min

Tips & Variations

Variations

  • Napoleon: what North America calls it. Nothing to do with Bonaparte — the likelier story is that napolitain, meaning from Naples, drifted into the name.
  • Russian Napoleon cake (tort Napoleon): a dozen or more thin pastry sheets stacked with cream and left overnight so that it deliberately goes soft. That is the exact opposite aim to the French one, which spends its whole method defending crispness; treat it as a different cake with the same name.
  • Mille-feuille glacé: ice cream between the sheets instead of cream.
  • Regional versions use jam and almond cream in place of pastry cream.
  • Crème diplomate: pastry cream with whipped cream folded in. Lighter, and easier to cut, which is why most modern pâtisseries use it.

Tips

  • Stopping it puffing is the dish. Croissants and pain au chocolat use the same folding to get as much lift as possible. Here the same dough is docked and weighted down to a third of its height. The layers are not lost, they are compressed — which is why a knife shatters it cleanly instead of crushing it.
  • There is no yeast in it. The only thing lifting puff pastry is water in the butter layers. Dough and gluten puts the condition plainly: those layers survive only while the butter stays cold enough not to melt into the dough, so it goes back in the fridge between rolls.
  • Docking is not decoration. Without the holes, steam collects at whatever point is weakest and lifts that one spot into a dome. And a tray on top without docking either rides up or squeezes the dough sideways. The two go together.
  • The sugar layer is waterproofing. The caramelised finish in the last ten minutes is not only colour: it slows the cream's moisture moving up into the pastry. Tarte tatin solved the soggy-base problem by removing it; this one solves it by sealing against it.
  • Cut the top sheet first. It is the pâtissier's trick and it is the single change that most improves a home mille-feuille.
  • A full minute past the boil for the cream. Amylase in the yolks, left alive, slackens the cream back to liquid in the fridge. Prinsesstårta has the same note.
  • Assemble at the end. Pastry takes up moisture from the cream and softens within about two hours. The baked sheets can be made a day ahead; the stacking cannot.

The basics behind this dish

Cooking basics →

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