Dessert

Cakes, custards, pastries, puddings, rice cakes, frozen desserts and confections. Here sugar does more than sweeten: it holds water, sets structure and browns. Basics to read first: What Sugar Does Besides Sweeten

Filipino

Sapin-Sapin (Layered Steamed Glutinous Rice Cake)

A Filipino steamed cake: a batter of glutinous rice flour, coconut milk and sugar split three ways, coloured purple, white and yellow, and steamed one layer at a time, each set before the next is poured on. The Tagalog name means "layered". It is topped with latik, the toasted curds of coconut milk.

Indian

Chhena Poda (Baked Fresh Cheese Cake)

A dessert from Odisha in eastern India: fresh chhena, milk curdled with acid and drained, kneaded long with sugar and semolina, then baked for a long time until the outside is deep brown. The Odia name means "burnt cheese", and most of its flavour comes from the caramelised sugar.

Filipino

Champorado (Chocolate Sticky Rice Porridge)

A Filipino chocolate porridge: sticky rice boiled with tablea, tablets of pure ground roasted cocoa, until thick. Milk or coconut milk goes over the top and sugar goes in to taste. Eaten for breakfast or merienda, and commonly paired with tuyo, small salted dried fish.

Vietnamese

Xôi Gấc (Sticky Rice Dyed Red with Gac Fruit)

Vietnamese sticky rice coloured red with the pulp of gac fruit. The soaked rice is tossed with the pulp, loosened with a little rice spirit, and salt, then steamed; once cooked it is mixed with sugar and coconut milk and steamed a little longer. It is the red rice of Tết and of weddings.

Spanish

Tarta de Santiago (Flourless Galician Almond Cake)

The almond cake of Galicia. Ground almonds and sugar in equal weights are mixed with eggs and baked, and the top is dusted with icing sugar around a stencil of the Cross of Saint James. There is no flour; the eggs hold it together.

Italian

Seada (Fried Cheese Pastry with Honey)

A fried Sardinian sweet: a disc of fresh, sour cheese sealed between two thin sheets of semolina and lard pastry, fried and covered with warm honey. The cheese has to be acid enough to stretch when it is heated.

Canadian

Pouding Chômeur (Cake Baked Under Hot Maple Syrup)

A Quebec dessert: a plain cake batter spread in a dish, a hot syrup of maple syrup and cream poured over it, and the whole thing baked. In the oven the cake rises up through the syrup, and the syrup sinks to the bottom as a thick sauce.

British

Treacle Tart (Golden Syrup and Breadcrumb Tart)

A British tart: a shortcrust case filled with golden syrup, fresh breadcrumbs and lemon, and baked. There is no egg; the crumbs hold the syrup and it sets as it cools. Served warm with clotted cream, custard or ice cream.

British

Sticky Toffee Pudding (Date Sponge in Toffee Sauce)

An English pudding: chopped dates soaked in boiling water with bicarbonate of soda are beaten into a sponge batter and baked, and a sauce of butter, dark sugar and cream is poured over while it is hot. Served warm with vanilla ice cream or custard.

Chinese

Shuangpinai (Double-Skin Steamed Milk Pudding)

A milk dessert from Shunde in Guangdong. Boiled milk is poured into a bowl and cooled until a skin forms; the milk is drained out from under it, mixed with egg white, poured back beneath the skin and steamed. A second skin forms as it cools. A soft custard set by egg white.

Korean

Omija Hwachae (Cold-Steeped Five-Flavour Berry Punch)

A Korean summer punch: dried omija berries steeped overnight in cold water, the red liquid strained off and sweetened with honey or sugar, then served cold with flower-cut pear and pine nuts floating on top. Sour first, sweet behind it.

Turkish

Kazandibi (Milk Pudding with a Deliberately Burnt Base)

An Ottoman palace dessert: milk thickened with rice flour, poured into a buttered, sugared tray and set over a flame until the base burns dark on purpose. Chilled, cut and rolled so the burnt side faces out. The name means "bottom of the cauldron".

Korean

Sikhye (Sweet Rice Drink Made with Barley Malt)

A sweet Korean rice drink. Cooked rice is covered with water steeped from barley malt and kept warm until the malt's enzymes have turned the starch inside each grain into sugar; when the hollowed grains start to float it is done. The grains are lifted out and kept aside, the liquid is boiled once to stop the enzymes and sweetened with sugar, and it is served chilled with the grains and a few pine nuts floating on top.

Italian

Semifreddo (Frozen Hazelnut Mousse with Caramel)

The Italian frozen dessert that is set in a mould instead of churned. Nothing stirs it in the freezer, so every bit of air has to be in before it goes in: half-whipped cream and an Italian meringue made with hot syrup. That is why it needs no machine, and why it is still spoonable frozen.

Swedish

Ostkaka (Baked Rennet Curd Cake)

A Swedish curd cake: milk with a little flour in it is set with rennet, the whey is drained off, and the curd is mixed with egg, cream, sugar and almonds and baked. The milk is set twice, once by rennet and once by egg and heat. Eaten lukewarm from the middle outwards, with jam and whipped cream.

Armenian

Ghapama (Pumpkin Baked Whole with Rice, Dried Fruit and Honey)

An Armenian holiday dish: a whole pumpkin hollowed out, packed to the brim with rice tossed in butter, honey, dried fruit and nuts, lidded with its own top and baked whole. The rice goes in already cooked, so it does not swell, which is why the pumpkin can be filled right up; the oven time is all for the pumpkin wall. It is cut open at the table and served in wedges, wall and filling together.

Korean

Gangjeong (Puffed Glutinous Rice Confection)

A Korean confection: glutinous rice soaked four or five days, ground, mixed with rice wine and honey, steamed and kneaded, cut into 1cm-thick pieces and dried hard in the shade, then puffed in oil. The pieces are too thick to fry in one go, so they sit in room-temperature oil, swell slowly in warm oil, and only once they have reached their size go into hot oil to set. Finished with honey and a coat of popped rice or sesame.

Japanese

Nama Yatsuhashi (Steamed Cinnamon Rice Sheets Folded over Bean Paste)

Kyoto's cinnamon sweet. A dough of non-glutinous rice flour with a little glutinous flour is steamed whole, kneaded, rolled to 2mm under a dusting of cinnamon, cut into squares and folded into triangles over bean paste. The rule that a rice dough cannot be folded is about a dough that is mostly raw; in this one all of the starch has been cooked, so it rolls thin and folds without cracking. The same dough dried out in the oven is the original, hard yatsuhashi.

Japanese

Sakuramochi (Bean Paste in a Pink Crêpe and a Salted Cherry Leaf)

A Japanese wagashi: bean paste rolled in a thin pink wheat crêpe and wrapped again in a salted cherry leaf. Instead of a pinch of salt mixed into the paste, the salt sits in the leaf, so sweet and salt never mix and only meet in the mouth. Whether the leaf is eaten is up to whoever eats it; what the cook decides is how much salt is soaked out of the leaf first.

Guatemalan

Rellenitos de Plátano (Plantain Dumplings Filled with Sweet Black Beans)

A Guatemalan dessert: black-skinned ripe plantain boiled and mashed into a dough, wrapped around black beans cooked with chocolate and cinnamon, shaped into little eggs and fried. Fried raw, a ripe plantain burns its sugar on the outside before the middle is done; this one is boiled first, so the middle is already cooked and the oil only has to colour it. There is no flour in it at all — it is a dessert made from the two staples of the everyday plate, beans and plantain.

Japanese

Kuzukiri (Kudzu Starch Noodles in Black Sugar Syrup)

Kyoto's summer dessert: kudzu starch stirred into water, poured thin into a flat tray, set over boiling water, cooled in ice water, cut into noodles and dipped in black sugar syrup. Gelatine and agar set as they cool; kudzu starch sets while it is heated. So each sheet is set over the heat, moved straight into ice water, and eaten where it was made.

Brazilian

Goiabada (Guava Paste Firm Enough to Slice)

Brazil's guava paste. Guava is cooked, sieved and stirred down with sugar for the best part of an hour, and poured into a mould it cools into a block you cut with a knife. No gelatine and no agar go in: what sets it is the guava's own pectin. It began in colonial Brazil as a stand-in for quince marmelada, and eaten with a slice of Minas cheese the pair is called Romeo and Juliet.

Turkish

Dondurma (Ice Cream Thickened with Salep and Mastic)

Turkey's ice cream, named after Maraş. Goat's milk and sugar are cooked thick with salep and mastic, then frozen. Salep is the dried, powdered tuber of wild orchids, and its polysaccharide makes the ice cream dense and chewy, so that it cuts with a knife rather than scoops and stretches as you eat it. What holds it together is not the ice alone.

Spanish

Cuajada (Rennet-Set Milk Pudding)

A dessert from northern Spain: sheep's milk warmed to about body heat, set with rennet in the small pots it is served in, and eaten with honey and walnuts. It is mozzarella stopped just before the knife: the milk is set the same way, but nothing cuts it to let the whey out, so the whey stays held in the gel and the result is a trembling pudding rather than a cheese. Pour it into the pots before it sets, and do not touch it while it does.

Brazilian

Bolo de Rolo (Guava Roll Cake of Paper-Thin Layers)

Brazil's roll cake: butter sponge spread paper-thin and baked, brushed with melted goiabada (guava paste), and rolled tight, sheet after sheet, until the cut face shows dozens of thin layers in a spiral. The sheets have to be thin enough to count and still bend rather than crack, and the goiabada is melted to spread and then sets again in the fridge to hold the layers together.

Japanese

Zunda Mochi (Rice Dumplings in Sweet Edamame Paste)

A sweet from northern Japan: glutinous rice dumplings coated in a green paste of mashed, sweetened edamame. Red bean paste starts from a dried pulse that is soaked, simmered and cooked down; edamame is the soybean picked green, so it is blanched for a few minutes in salted water, skinned, and mashed without ever going back on the heat. Never cooked down, the paste is too wet to wrap, so it goes over the mochi rather than inside it, and it keeps for a day.

Korean

Yeongeun-jeonggwa (Lotus Root Candied in Syrup)

A Korean confection of lotus root sliced thin and simmered for over an hour in syrup until it is translucent and chewy right through. The method is to start with a thin sugar solution and let it get sweeter only as fast as the water boils off, rather than dropping the slices into a heavy syrup. Sugar is a large, slow molecule, and it needs that time to take the place of the water inside the root.

Brazilian

Quindim (Coconut Yolk Custard with a Glassy Top)

A small Brazilian custard of egg yolks, sugar, grated coconut and melted butter, baked in a water bath in a mould buttered and sugared, then turned out so that a coconut layer carries a shining yellow top. Crème brûlée disperses its yolks in cream and crème caramel in milk; quindim has no liquid to disperse them in at all. So in the oven the mixture parts into coconut and yolk, and one bake comes out as two layers.

Korean

Patbingsu (Shaved Milk Ice with Sweet Red Beans)

Korea's summer dessert: finely shaved ice under whole red beans cooked sweet. Today's patbingsu shaves frozen milk and condensed milk rather than water, so the ice piles up in soft snow-like flakes instead of crunchy grains. The difference comes from the ice, not the blade: the sugar lowers the freezing point and keeps the block soft. The beans get their sugar only once they are tender, and the bowl is mixed and eaten at once.

Chinese

Ma Tai Go (Steamed Water Chestnut Cake)

A Cantonese steamed cake of translucent water chestnut starch gel set around pieces of chopped water chestnut. The same plant is in each slice with two textures. The flour sets soft and springy; the chopped corm is still crunchy after being boiled in syrup, steamed and fried, because heat does not loosen a water chestnut’s cell walls.

Chinese

Lau Sa Bao (Steamed Buns with a Molten Salted Egg Yolk Filling)

A Cantonese dim sum bun filled with salted egg yolk beaten into butter. Break it open and the orange filling runs out like sand, which is what the name means. It looks like a custard, but there is no egg in it for the heat to set: the salt set the yolks long before, and what flows is the butter. So the filling is wrapped cold and solid, and the steamer melts it again.

French

Kouign-amann (Laminated Cake with Sugar Folded In)

A Breton cake from Douarnenez around 1860 whose name means "bread and butter". Butter is folded into a yeast dough as for a croissant, and in the last two folds sugar goes in with it. Between the layers the sugar draws water out of the dough into a syrup, and in the oven that syrup and the melted butter turn to caramel in the tin and all but fry the outside. So the inside is chewy rather than croissant-light, and the outside shatters like glass.

Austrian

Kaiserschmarrn (Torn Caramelised Soufflé Pancake)

Austria's pancake dessert: a yolk batter lightened with whisked whites, poured thick into a pan, quartered and turned once the underside has set, and then torn into bite-sized pieces in the pan. A pancake is usually turned so as not to tear it; here the tear is the method. The batter is too thick to flip whole or to cook through, so tearing turns its unset middle into fresh surface against the pan, and the ragged faces take a coat of caramelised sugar.

Japanese

Imo-yōkan (Sweet Potato Bar Set by Its Own Starch)

A Japanese sweet made by sieving steamed sweet potato while hot, mixing in sugar, pressing it hard into a square mould and letting it set as it cools. It is called yōkan but has neither agar nor bean paste in it. What sets it is the sweet potato's own starch, and with far less sugar it does not keep: it is eaten within days.

Korean

Hwajeon (Glutinous Rice Rounds Pressed with Azalea Petals)

A spring rice cake: glutinous rice dough made with boiling water, shaped into flat rounds, fried over low heat, with azalea petals pressed onto the cooked side. Because the flower is an ingredient, it has to be chosen properly first: the one eaten is Korean azalea (jindallae), not the similar-looking royal azalea (cheoljjuk), and only the petals are used, with the stamens taken off.

Swedish

Kladdkaka (Sticky Chocolate Cake with No Leavening)

The Swedish chocolate cake pulled from the oven while the middle is still batter. No baking powder, no yeast, and the butter is melted rather than creamed, so there is no whipped air either. Nothing lifts it at all, and that is the cake rather than a fault in it. The story goes that it began in 1938, when baking powder was hard to come by in Sweden and an American brownie recipe was made without it.

German

Black Forest Cake (Chocolate Sponge, Sour Cherries and Kirsch)

Three sheets of cocoa sponge brushed with kirsch, layered with sour Morello cherries and whipped cream, and covered in shaved chocolate. The kirsch goes onto a sponge that is already baked and meets no heat after that, so the raw edge of the spirit staying in the cake is the design rather than a fault.

Chinese

Bingfen (Chilled Ice Jelly with Brown Sugar)

A summer jelly from southwest China, set from the mucilage rubbed out of plant seeds in cold water with a pinch of slaked lime. Nothing in it is heated at any stage; it is served cold under brown sugar syrup with whatever toppings the stall has.

Chinese

Basi (Sweet Potato in a Molten Sugar Shell)

Sweet potato fried, then turned in sugar melted in oil — a sweet course from northern China. The name 拔丝 means "pulling silk", and the thread that follows a piece off the plate is not a garnish but the signal that the sugar is ready. Because the sugar is melted over oil rather than dissolved in water, there is no water to drive off at any stage, and the setting is done at the table by the person eating, in a bowl of cold water.

Estonian

Kama (Roasted Grain Flour Whipped with Kefir)

Estonia's grain flour and the dessert made from it: barley, rye, oat and pea roasted whole, then milled, then whisked into kefir until it holds soft peaks. The point of the flour is that it has already been cooked. Its starch is dextrinised before it is ever milled, so it hydrates in cold liquid and needs no oven at any stage — which is why it was carried on journeys. Dasik uses roasted flour too, but binds it with honey and the pressure of a mould; here the liquid is the binder.

British

Summer Pudding (Bread-Lined Mould of Soft Fruit)

An English dessert: a basin lined with stale white bread, filled with barely-heated soft fruit and its juice, weighted, and turned out the next day. There is no gelatine, no egg and no starch in it, and the bread is never baked. It stands up on the plate because bread swollen with juice, held under a weight, loses the seams between the slices. Nothing is added to set it, and the overnight wait is not resting -- it is the cooking.

Filipino

Nata de Coco (Fermented Coconut Jelly)

The Filipino sweet in which coconut water is fermented into a jelly. Kimchi is still cabbage after fermenting; nata de coco is no longer coconut water at all. Bacteria eat its sugar and excrete cellulose, which builds up at the surface as a mat. What you eat is that cellulose; the coconut water was fuel.

Russian

Medovik (Honey Layer Cake)

A Russian cake of eight to twelve thin honey layers stacked with soured cream. Soda bread must be baked within minutes of acid meeting bicarbonate; medovik runs that reaction to the end in a pan before any flour goes in. Honey is acidic, bicarbonate of soda meets that acid over heat, and the mass foams to twice its volume.

Turkish

Pişmaniye (Floss Halva)

Turkish floss halva: sugar syrup folded over and over with butter-roasted flour until it turns into fine threads. Each fold doubles the layers, as in Korean yeot; but yeot has air between its layers and turns white, while here roasted flour and butter keep the layers from welding back together.

Danish

Koldskål (Cold Buttermilk Bowl)

The Danish summer bowl; the name means cold bowl. Custards are usually set by heat, but koldskål never meets any: cultured buttermilk's acidity, sugar dissolved into raw yolk and the fridge do the work. The hard part is the order, since yolk dropped straight into cold acidic buttermilk seizes into threads.

French

Canelé (Beeswax-Lined Mould, Burnt Crust, Custard Middle)

The little cake of Bordeaux: a thin, almost crêpe-like batter rested a day or two, then baked at 250°C in copper moulds lined with beeswax and butter until nearly burnt outside. The thick dark shell is the aim, the inside a barely set custard. The wax lacquers the crust without burning and frees the cake.

Korean

Jeungpyeon (Rice Cake Leavened with Makgeolli)

A summer rice cake made by fermenting non-glutinous rice flour with makgeolli, for the carbon dioxide the yeast gives off. Rice flour has no gluten to trap gas, so it is a pourable batter rather than a dough, and the starch setting as it steams holds the bubbles. That is why it is never kneaded.

British

Spotted Dick (Suet Pudding Steamed in a Basin)

The British steamed pudding made with suet, the fat from around a bullock's kidneys. Suet melts only at 45-50°C, well above butter, so in a steamer that never passes 100°C the batter sets first and only then does the fat run out. The holes it leaves are the light crumb; made with butter, it comes out dense.

French

Île Flottante (Poached Meringue Floating on Custard)

The French dessert of poached meringue floating on custard. Whipped foam can be chilled, as in a mousse, or baked, as in a soufflé; here it is poached, setting on milk at 80°C in about two minutes. Underneath is crème anglaise, a stirred custard that wants the opposite care: once it boils, it is finished.

Italian

Biscotti di Prato (Cantucci)

The almond biscuit of Prato in Tuscany. The name is the Latin biscoctus, twice-cooked: baked once as a log, sliced, and baked again. The point is that the second bake is not cooking but drying — the loaf is already done after the first one, and the second exists only to drive water out through the newly cut faces. That is why they keep for months, and it is why the traditional recipe has no butter, no oil and no milk in it at all. The absence of fat is not an omission; it is the condition for keeping.

French

Crème Caramel (Baked Custard Turned Out in Its Own Caramel)

The French custard baked over a layer of caramel and turned out onto a plate. Two things decide it. Because it has to stand up unsupported once it leaves the mould it is made with whole eggs, not the yolks alone that go into crème brûlée — egg white sets firmer than yolk. And the caramel, poured in and set hard as glass, spends the night pulling water out of the custard and turning back into a syrup. No sauce is made: waiting is how the sauce gets made.

Indian

Barfi (Reduced-Milk Fudge)

An Indian sweet made by stirring milk down for hours and then setting it. Most sugar confections fight crystallisation with invert sugar, glucose or a syrup taken to glass. Barfi wants crystals, as long as they are very small: how it is stirred while it cools decides their size, and that size is the texture.

French

Chocolate Truffle (Ganache Rolled in Cocoa)

The French confection: hot cream poured onto chocolate, set, rolled and dusted with cocoa. A ganache is an emulsion that sets rather than pours, and nothing was added to hold it — the chocolate's own lecithin and cocoa particles do that. And one number decides what you get from the same operation: 2:1 chocolate to cream gives a truffle you can roll, 1:1 a glaze you pour, 1:2 a sauce.

Italian

Genoise (Whole-Egg Sponge)

A sponge cake with no raising agent at all, aerated by whipping whole eggs. A whole egg is about a third yolk by weight, and the fat in the yolk breaks bubble walls, so cold whole egg barely foams. That is why the eggs and sugar are warmed to 40-45°C over a water bath before whipping.

French

Nougat (Honey and Egg-White Confection with Almonds)

The honey-and-egg-white confection of southern France. Sugar work usually stops once the syrup hits its target; nougat goes on cooking after the syrup is poured into the whites, beaten twenty to thirty minutes more to drive out water. A drop in cold water judges it: 135°C gives soft nougat, 145-150°C hard.

Taiwanese

Pineapple Cake (Fenglisu)

Taiwan's signature gift confection — and the filling in a traditional one is mostly winter melon rather than pineapple. Cooked down on its own, pineapple stays fibrous and sharply sour and gives off juice in the oven that soaks the pastry under it; winter melon tastes of almost nothing but reduces to something soft and stiff enough to hold a cube. The pineapple goes in for aroma. All-pineapple filling is the more recent revival, and it has a name of its own.

Norwegian

Krumkake (Cone Wafer Cookie)

The Norwegian wafer baked thin in a patterned iron and rolled around a cone while it is still hot. The trick is not in the batter but in the timing: a wafer off the iron stays pliable for about ten seconds and then sets like glass, and bending it after that shatters it. So the cone has to be in your hand before the wafer comes off, and you can only bake one at a time. Nothing in it leavens anything — the thinness and the iron do all the work.

Korean

Dasik (Pressed Honey Confection)

The Korean confection served with tea, made with neither water nor heat — so the whole question is where its solidity comes from. Baekseolgi sieves rice flour into a mould and lets steam gelatinise the starch so the particles weld together. Dasik has no steam, so the only thing binding it is honey, and the rest is the pressure of the carved mould. That is why the flour has to be roasted beforehand, why it has to be sieved very fine, and why there is almost no margin in how much honey goes in.

Italian

Sfogliatella (Layered Shell Pastry)

Naples' shell-shaped pastry. In a croissant or a strudel the layers lie parallel to the surface. Here a stretched sheet is smeared with lard, rolled into a log and cut across, so each disc is a spiral seen end-on, pushed out into a cone of layers on edge. That is why it shatters into leaves instead of sheets.

American

Chiffon Cake

The American foam cake made with oil instead of butter. That one substitution decides everything: oil does not solidify at room temperature, so a chiffon stays soft straight out of the fridge where a butter cake goes firm. But oil cannot hold air the way creamed butter does, so the whipped whites carry all of it — and the tin must be left ungreased, because the batter has to climb the sides. Out of the oven it hangs upside down to cool.

The rest of this kind57