Poire Belle Hélène (Poached Pear with Chocolate Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream)

Photo: Joey Doll · CC BY 2.0

Poire Belle Hélène (Poached Pear with Chocolate Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream)

Pears poached in sugar syrup, served with vanilla ice cream and hot chocolate sauce — Escoffier’s composition of about 1864, named after Offenbach’s operetta. The point of it is that the pears go into syrup and not into water. In plain water, water leaves the pear’s cells and pectin dissolves out of the walls, and twenty minutes turns it to mush; in a syrup sweeter than the fruit, that flow all but stops. Same time on the heat, and one of them collapses while the other comes out firm enough to cut.

Ingredients

4servings
  • The poached pears
  • pears · Bartlett or Conference; firm and under-ripe4
  • water1 L
  • sugar · 40 percent of the water — cut it and the pears collapse400 g
  • vanilla pod · split; or 1 tsp extract1
  • lemon · juice and peel1
  • Chocolate sauce
  • dark chocolate · 60-70 percent150 g
  • double cream120 ml
  • milk40 ml
  • sugar20 g
  • unsalted butter · at the end, for gloss15 g
  • To serve
  • vanilla ice cream4 scoops
  • flaked almonds · toasted30 g
  • crystallised violets · optional; Escoffier’s original garnish4
  • For a tea syrup (optional)
  • black tea · steeped 5 min in the litre of water, strained, then made into syrup; the photograph is this version3 tbsp

Steps

  1. Bring 1L of water with 400g sugar, the split vanilla pod and the lemon peel just to the point where the sugar has dissolved. If you are making the tea syrup, steep and strain it now.

    ⏲ 8 min
  2. Peel the pears, leaving the stalks on, and drop them into lemon water as you go so they do not brown. Halve and core them, or leave them whole.

    ⏲ 10 min
  3. Turn the syrup down low and put the pears in. Never let it boil — in a rolling boil the pears knock about and break up physically. A surface that barely trembles is right.

  4. Hold them under the syrup with a paper cartouche or a small plate. Anything above the surface does not cook and discolours.

    ⏲ 2 min
  5. Twenty to thirty minutes. Doneness is judged by a skewer, not by the clock: it should meet no resistance at the thickest point. Variety and ripeness can change the time twofold.

    ⏲ 25 min
  6. Take it off the heat and let them cool in the syrup. This is the flavouring step — lift them out hot and the aroma stays in the syrup. Overnight is better.

    ⏲ 60 min
  7. For the sauce, warm the cream, milk and sugar to just below the boil, pour it over the chopped chocolate, leave it one minute untouched, then stir from the centre outwards in small circles to emulsify. Beat in the butter at the end.

    ⏲ 5 min
  8. Drain the cold pears, plate them with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and pour the hot chocolate sauce over the pear. Scatter the almonds and serve at once. The contrast between the hot sauce and the cold ice cream is half the dessert.

    ⏲ 3 min

Tips & Variations

Variations

  • Tea or wine. Steep the syrup with black tea (which is what the photograph shows) or make it with red wine, and the colour and aroma change completely. Keep the sugar concentration and the mechanism is the same.
  • Spices. A piece of cinnamon, star anise, cloves, peppercorns — into the syrup, and left to cool with the pears.
  • Poire Belle Angevine. The cousin with caramel sauce and nuts instead of chocolate.
  • Pêche Melba. Escoffier's peach version, with raspberry purée. The poaching works identically.
  • About the photograph. The hero is tea-poached pears in chocolate sauce, with no ice cream. What this page argues — that the fruit cooked through and still held its shape — is exactly what it shows.

Tips

  • Poaching in syrup rather than water is the whole dish. In plain water, water leaves the pear's cells for the weaker solution outside, and the pectin holding the cell walls together dissolves out with it: twenty minutes and it is mush. A syrup sweeter than the fruit all but stops that flow, and sugar moves slowly inward instead, supporting the tissue. Same twenty minutes, and one collapses while the other can be cut with a knife.
  • Which is why you cannot cut the sugar. Forty percent of the water is the floor. Halving it "because it is too sweet" does not just make it less sweet — it takes away the scaffolding.
  • Do not let it boil. The syrup protects the pears chemically; a rolling boil breaks them mechanically, knocking them against each other and the pan. A barely trembling surface.
  • Judge it with a skewer. Pears run from fifteen minutes to forty depending on variety and ripeness. The skewer is the answer, not the number in a recipe.
  • Cool them in the syrup. Far more aroma goes in while they cool than while they cook. Lift them out hot and it stays in the pan.
  • Where it sits among this site's sugar dishes. Tanghulu drives all the water out so the sugar sets like glass; Bündner Nusstorte adds cream so it will not set; Yōkan uses the concentration to preserve. Here sugar has a fourth job — holding tissue together by osmosis.
  • Set beside Tarte Tatin. There the apples keep releasing water, which is what keeps the caramel a sauce. Here the point is to stop the pear releasing water at all. Same fruit and sugar, opposite aims.
  • Pour the cream and wait a minute. Stir the moment it lands and the emulsion starts before the chocolate has melted, and it splits. One minute untouched, then stir from the centre.

The basics behind this dish

Cooking basics →

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